Rusty rotors peeking out from behind your expensive alloy wheels? Here's how to remove rust from brake rotors.
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Introduction
The popularity of alloy wheels puts brake rotors on full display. Rotors, however, must be made from heavy, heat-resistant, metal—unprotected metal that easily rusts* under the harsh conditions of a wheel well. The unsightly discoloration showing through their expensive alloy wheels leads many people to ask how to remove rust from brake rotors. You can clean up rusted rotors in several ways, depending upon how bad it is. We'll walk you through the process from easiest to most-labor intensive to help you get the job done.
The most important safety tip you must observe: No lubricant (such as WD-40) or permanent coating should ever be applied to the braking surface of the rotor. Period.
*Rust appears on the surface while corrosion is actual damage that goes deeper than the surface. If the rotors have corrosion, they will need resurfacing or replacement.
Tools Required
- 6-inch C-clamp
- Caliper hangers
- Combination wrench set (standard for domestics/ metric for imports)
- Floor jack
- Large bucket or tray to catch runoff
- Lug wrench or impact wrench and socket
- Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
- Scrubby pad or wire-bristled brush
- Wheel chocks
Materials Required
- Brake cleaner spray
- Cleaning vinegar
- Non-oily rags
Project step-by-step (9)
Step 1
Drive the Car
- It’s common for rust to form on the rotors if the vehicle sits in one place for a few days, especially after a rainy day.
- Remove this superficial rust by simply driving. Take the vehicle out for a spin that includes some stop-and-go driving, then check the rotors.
- If rust remains visible, repeat this process, but drive a little faster and brake a little harder.
- Be safe! Find a deserted street or an empty parking lot. Start the vehicle in motion, getting up to 10 mph or so, then brake hard. Repeat this process a few times and check the rotors again. If you still see rust, then move to the next step.
Step 2
Remove the Wheel
- Put the vehicle in park and engage the parking brake.
- Always place chocks behind the wheels of the axle you are not working on.
- Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are working on, and then use a floor jack to bring the wheel off the ground.
- Remove the wheel to expose the rotor.
- Pro Tip: Never rely on a floor jack alone to support your vehicle! Always use a jack stand in addition to a floor jack as a secondary safety measure.
Step 3
Clean the Rotors with Calipers On
- The rotor can be cleaned with the pads and caliper in place, but you will have to turn the rotor to access the area covered by the pads. Brake cleaner will not harm the pad lining, but excessive application may affect the adhesion of the lining to the pad backing, so don’t go overboard.
- Always do this job in a well-ventilated area and remember to wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
- Put down a tray to catch any runoff, then spray the lower half of the rotor with brake cleaner. Let the rotor dry, then wipe it with a new, clean rag.
- Rotate the rotor and repeat the process.
- If some rust remains, apply more brake cleaner and work the surface with steel wool or a wire brush. Wipe off the rotor and finish with a final shot of cleaner.
- If you wish to remove the calipers instead, continue to the next step.
Step 4
Remove the Calipers
- Use a box-end wrench to loosen the bolts holding the caliper assembly to the guide pins on the caliper bracket and remove them.
- Lift the caliper assembly free of the rotor and secure it in a position in the wheel well where it can hang without causing damage to the brake line.
- Pro Tip: Old wire clothes hangers work very well for this job, but caliper hangers are also sold in most auto stores.
- Use a box-end wrench to loosen and remove the bolts securing the caliper bracket (which holds the pads). Remove this and set aside.
Step 5
Inspect the Pads
- As long as the brakes are apart, I always take a moment to inspect the pads for glazing (a slightly crystalline appearance) on the surface.
- It’s also a good time to measure the thickness of the brake pads. Anything less than 4 mm of depth means the pads should be replaced.
- Check the caliper piston boot and guide pin boots for tears, too. Any loss of integrity found on these boots exposes the moving parts to dirt and corrosion that can cause them to seize. This must be addressed right away.
Step 6
Clean the Rotors
- Clean the rust from the rotors with brake cleaner as described above.
- This part of the job is easier because the hubs don’t need to be rotated.
Step 7
Deep Clean
- If the rotor is badly rusted, remove it completely to give it a good soak for a deep clean. Products such as CLR and Evapo-Rust, will work fine for stubborn rust removal, but I prefer using strong cleaning vinegar— it’s non-toxic, won’t hurt my skin and does a great job of removing surface rust.
- Place the rotor in a tub and fill it with cleaning vinegar (5% to 25% concentrate) until the liquid covers the rotor. Let it sit in the liquid for 24 hours in a well-ventilated area and complete the cleaning process by using a scrubby pad to clear away the dissolved rust. The lower the concentration percentage, the longer you’ll need to let it sit.
- Rinse, wipe dry and re-install.
Step 8
Reassemble the Brakes
- Once the rotors are clean, work backward to reassemble the brakes and remount the wheel.
- A large C-clamp may be required to retract the piston in the caliper assembly, so it will fit over the brake pads.
- Hand-tighten the lug nuts on the wheel and then lower the vehicle back down.
- Once the vehicle is down off the jacks, tighten the lug nuts to the required torque specs.
Step 9
Paint New Rotors
- While normal use of the vehicle keeps any rust on the rotor face in check, painting the hub will improve the appearance and prevent the non-braking surface of the rotors from becoming unsightly.
- Before mounting your brand-new brake rotors, apply brake caliper paint to the center section of each.
- Tape off the braking surface before painting to protect it from contamination, and paint only the dome that fits over the hub.
- After painting, use some brake cleaner on a cloth to wipe away any residue from the tape.
